Into the remote Kimberley… Part 1
Wow… Just wow! I have been a little inactive online lately, but at least I have an excuse. I have been so incredibly caught up in actually doing all of the things I should be writing about, so much so that I have had no spare time to report back. 16 hour days, travel etc. No, I’m not complaining at all, but it is about time I filled you all in on the details of what’s been going on.
First of all, there’s the Kimberley. A vast, harsh, rocky range in Australia’s far northwest that is known for being tough and hard to access. It’s a biological hotspot for endemic species. It’s one of the places I have always wanted to see, and this year I finally had the means to get out there and do it. So in March I enlisted Linda, a German biologist to come along and help me explore the eastern edge of the Kimberley, from Kunnunurra on the Western Australian border.
I filled up the car in Darwin, then south at Katherine filled an extra 40L in jerry cans in readiness for the high fuel prices in WA. Much to our later shock, the fuel is often WAY cheaper in the remote Kimberley than Darwin, Wyndham was 15% cheaper in fact!
After 10 hours driving the still wet roads we crossed the customs checkpoint and were both in Western Australia for the first time!
The mission was to photograph the frogs of the region, and simply have a look around. The problem was it was far too late in the season for most of them, as they had all but finished breeding. However we still managed a few, plus a couple of reptiles. Access was severely limited all round due to the high water levels about the place, most roads were still isolated. Most of the time we hung around the Grotto between Kunnunurra and Wyndham, a wonderful rocky escarpment fed by a couple of waterfalls. A day to day account would be far too tedious as it involves loads of backtracking, so I will let the pictures talk…
Kunnunurra – the gateway to the Western Australia
We didn’t see much of this area as we were only passing though…
On the border of the NT/WA we found a bunch of Stonemason toadlets (Uperoleia lithomoda) which are named after their call which sounds like someone chipping a stone. The harsh tap sound hurts the ears at close range.
Once known only from the Barkly tableland in the NT, the Daly Waters Frog (Cyclorana maculosa) has turned up in the Kimberley, treated as a form of the Long Footed Frog (Cyclorana longipes)
This boab looks great in full leaf
Around Kunnunurra the reedbeds were home to Crimson finches.
The Grotto – a slice of escarpment in the savannah
At sunset I photographed this awesome looking dragon which still lacks an ID
Moon setting at camp
The only common gecko was the Kimberley Dtella, Gehyra koira.
The cute little plug tailed gecko was found crossing the Grotto carpark
In the Grotto carpark we saw a couple of Australian Owlet Nightjars (Aegolethes cristatus) sitting around waiting for insects.
At the Grotto, white quilled rock pigeons (Petrophassa albipennis) were common.
The main frog species I wanted at the Grotto was the Staccato or Chattering rock frog (Litoria staccato) but all we found was the very similar Copland’s rock frog (Litoria coplandi) which is common all over the Kimberley and the NT
The carpenter frog (Limnodynastes lignarius) has a call just like someone banging a nail into a long plank of wood. It has huge eardrums too.
Adults are commonly found on rock ledges like this one.
The bilingual froglet gets its name from the two different calls they make, often switching from one to another.
In a soak were a few Northern Toadlets (Uperoleia borealis) calling happily. Looking much like small cane toads to the untrained eye, they are thankfully native.
The Watjulum frog is a common sandstone species, breeding in small flowing soaks and streams. During the breeding season males are bright yellow.
A front view of a pale green Magnificent or Splendid tree frog (Litoria splendida)
The splendid tree frogs were also seen on trees nearby.
The desert or little red tree frog (Litoria rubella) is supposedly an Australia-wide species. Here in the East Kimberley they are distinctive.
The town of Wyndham is surrounded in salt flats. Nice.
Although harsh, the salt flats are full of life, including some very tough fish species, especially gobies that spawn in the hypersaline pools.
The Gibb River Road – What little we could see
Boab trees are a feature of the Kimberley. Legend says they were once a tall, proud, boastful tree that was punished for being too proud by being upended and replanted upside down.
At sunset they are great to look at. The undergrowth after the wet season made photography hard.
The Gibb was mostly flooded, well too much so for my Outback, but I did get a few sunset shots at a swamp
Fishing the Pentecost River was largely uneventful. This was the limit for the car as it was too deep to cross…
On the Gibb River Road we found this Bandy Bandy (Vermicella intermedia?) next to a creek. This vivid snake is harmless to humans and only eats blind snakes.
Well, that is the best of the Kimberley for this installment. Check out part 2, Bush Blitz. Coming soon!